A guide to exploring Jordan’s lesser known treasures.

Petra, Petra, Petra. It’s all most people think about when they think of Jordan. Yet Jordan has SO MUCH MORE to offer. Sadly, most people only visit Petra when they come to Jordan. Even sadder, most people visit Petra on a package tour. That’s a shame! Without further ado, here’s a simple guide to some of Jordan’s other fantastic attractions.

First off, is Jordan Safe and Stable?

This one is simple. YES. The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is extremely safe and stable. In fact, I felt more secure in Jordan than I do in my hometown of Savannah. Why? It starts at the top. Jordan is a constitutional monarchy ruled by King Abdullah II. Abdullah has ruled Jordan since his father, King Hussein’s death in 1999. Abdullah rules as a tolerant moderate, just like his father Hussein. Some may even say Abdullah and Hussein are progressive Islamic leaders. In fact, King Hussein’s wife, Queen Noor, is American. Jordan’s leadership has produced an open, tolerant nation as opposed to neighboring states like Saudi Arabia. As proof of that moderation, Jordan and Israel have diplomatic relations, and even open border crossings.

As a result, Westerners seldomly have issues in Jordan. Furthermore, terrorist attacks are exceedingly rare in Jordan. In fact, Jordan is considered a safe country for tourists by over-protective governments such as the US and UK.

How to Travel Jordan Independently

It starts with renting a car.

Tourists, travelers, and backpackers often shy away from renting cars. The reasons are predictable: they’re scared of the roads, they’re afraid of other drivers/traffic, they don’t speak the language, they’re too expensive, there are other transportation options, etcetera. In many countries, I get it. However, in Jordan, renting a car is essential to maximize your travel experience.

Arriving in Jordan

Most people arrive in Jordan at the Queen Alia International Airport, located roughly 40 kilometers south of the capital, Amman. The airport is modern, airy, and easily navigable. Visitors from most developed countries obtain a visa on arrival at the airport.

Note that the airport is far south of Amman, and the major tourist attractions are located further south. Public transportation is basically non-existent in Jordan, so a rental car is the best transportation option.

Why Rent a Car?

First, Jordan is safe. Second, Jordan has decent roads. Third, public transportation is essentially non-existent. Fourth, I despise taxis, and the last thing I want to do when I arrive in a country is get ripped off by a cabbie. Lastly, renting a car at Queen Alia Airport is easy. All of the major international companies operate there, and the cost isn’t super expensive, especially if you are traveling with a group.

The upside to renting a car is that it provides you the freedom to see the attractions on your own without a tour. Having a car allows you to visit areas that aren’t normally accessible without a bespoke (i.e., expensive) private tour.

What can you see with a Rental Car?

Here’s what you can see on a short, 4-6 day trip to Jordan with a rental car!

A suggested itinerary

Madaba

Located close to Queen Alia Airport, Madaba is a mid-size Jordanian city that is jam-packed with ancient Christian historical sites. The drive is easy and doesn’t take more than 30 minutes, even at dark. Though you may not have heard of Madaba, it is the center of Christianity in Jordan, containing numerous sites from around the time of Christ. Madaba isn’t a beautiful city, per se, but the historical sites make up for what’s aesthetically lacking.

Prior to researching Jordan, you may be unaware (as I was) of it’s important Christian heritage. The land that now makes up Jordan was right at the heart of early Christianity. Madaba is a must for anyone interested in ancient Christian sites!

The major sites in Madaba can be visited on foot in one day. The following are recommended:

1. St. George’s Church : inside of this smallish church is the oldest map of Palestine in existence. The map, made of mosaic tiles, was re-discovered in 1884 when Byzantine-era remains were found under during construction of the modern edifice.
2. Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist: this church sits atop ruins of ancient sites, highlighted by the Acropolis Museum
3. Church of the Apostles: contains a beautiful mosaic of the Twelve Apostles
4. Madame Archaeological Park I & II: large, open air museum containing re-discovered mosaic treasures from the Byzantine era, multiple mosaics from antiquity, and even an old Roman street.

I stayed at, and recommend, the Black Iris Hotel. ($30-40 US, 21-28 JOD.)The Black Iris is simple, clean, and includes a good breakfast. The staff are welcoming and go out of their way to make sure you have a pleasant stay. The Moab Land Hotel is also recommended. It offers private rooms as well as dorm beds.

Short detour to Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan

Just a short drive from north from Madaba (or south from Amman), Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan is a small historical site where John the Baptist supposedly baptized Jesus Christ. It’s worth a visit on your way to (or way back from) the Dead Sea!

The Dead Sea

The mystical Dead Sea is synonymous with Israel, however, its entire east coast is in Jordan! I highly recommend driving to the Dead Sea from Madaba and stopping at the Dead Sea Panoramic Complex en-route. The drive to the Panoramic Complex is roughly 40 minutes, and meanders through small villages, olive groves, and craggy wadis. The Panoramic Complex itself is located on sheer cliffs overlooking the desert “oasis” that is the Dead Sea. The complex contains a museum (which was closed when I visited in December), and a restaurant with spectacular views over to Israel.

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After you’ve take your fair share of photos, hop back in the car for a short, steep drive down to the lowest point on earth. The road is steep, but well maintained, with major twists and turns through rocky desert cliffs. Watch the temperature rise as you make your way down, it’s crazy! When I visited in December of 2018, the temperature in Madaba was 38F (3C) when I woke up, and 76F (24C) when I reached the Dead Sea Highway! It was shocking…and warm enough for a swim!

For those interested, there are stylish resort-style hotels lining Jordan’s northeastern Dead Sea shore. All the usual suspects are there, Marriott, Mövenpick, Crowne Plaza, Hilton, Kempinski…complete with fancy pools, spas, and other amenities. If that’s your thing, they look fantastic, and they have good deals in the off-season. If fancy resorts aren’t your thing and you want to take a swim in the Dead Sea’s legendary waters, I recommend Amman Beach, which is located a few kilometers south of the resorts.

As the temperature skyrocketed on my drive down to the world’s lowest point of -1,400 ft (-430 m), I made the executive decision that I was going to take the plunge into those famously salty waters. I had to find out if you really float.

When I visited in mid-December, Amman Beach wasn’t teeming with people, but I imagine it gets very crowded in warmer months. The entry fee was around $35 US (25 JOD), and includes access to numerous swimming pools, showers, restaurants, gift ships and, of course, the Dead Sea itself. Sure, it’s expensive, but just pay it. Some experiences are worth the money!

A Swim in the Dead Sea

YES, YOU REALLY DO FLOAT!…and oh my lord is it salty! Like, it’s incredible. I’ve never been to space, but I imagine this is what it feels like. Totally weightless. You float atop this salt-bath like you’re wearing a body suit life jacket. It’s a totally unique, must-do experience. However…it BURNS if you’ve just shaved! The salinity is unexplainably high. So, take it from me, and probably don’t shave the morning of your Dead Sea swim!

The Dead Sea Highway to Petra

After a few hours of swimming and taking pictures at the Dead Sea, it’s time to head on to Petra via the Dead Sea Highway. If you have the time and the budget, you can spend a few spa days at the Dead Sea and then continue on to Petra, but a half-day is sufficient to get the flavor of the Dead Sea.

You start by heading south along the Dead Sea Highway (HWY 65,) which runs along the east coast of the Dead Sea, and offers miles of panoramic views. After thirty minutes of staring out at the lifeless expanse, you reach the Sea’s southern tip, where you start your slow climb out of the deep valley. You then pass a massive potash plant and endless vegetable fields.

After miles of out-of-place greenery, you come to the junction with HWY 60, where you turn left towards Al-Tafilah. (30.916308, 35.458223) As you bid farewell to the Dead Sea Highway, your focus shifts to the rapidly approaching, otherworldly mountains. Edging closer to the mountains you realize that you’ve left Earth and transported to the Star Wars planet Tatooine. At this point, there are no other cars. You’ll have the road all to yourself to stop and take pictures…

Just before you get to Al-Tafilyah, you arrive at the junction with HWY 35, The Kings Highway, where you turn right towards Petra. (30.816383, 35.586559) You continue through the Tatooine lunarscape until you arrive at the junction to Little Petra. Continue another 15-20 minutes and you’re in Wadi Musa (the town that border the Petra park.) The entire drive from Amman Beach to Wadi Musa takes about 3 1/2 hours, depending upon stops.

Wadi Musa

Wadi Musa is where all Petra’s hotels, restaurants, and amenities are located. While Petra is covered in detail here, my recommendations for Wadi Musa are below.

Wadi Musa itself is an unorganized conglomeration of restaurants, hotels, guesthouses, and gift shops. As such, I recommend staying at one of the Bedouin camps outside town. The Bedouin camps are all roughly the same, but check the reviews on booking.com if you’re picky. I stayed at the Seven Wonders Bedouin Camp, which was wonderful. Seven Wonders had individual tents with 2 twin beds, a shower area, a large communal tent for relaxing, and a restaurant.

Seven Wonders also served a tasty buffet-style dinner for around $10 US, and a basic complimentary breakfast. Rates were $40 US (28 JOD) for a 2 bed tent. The luxury option is the Mövenpick, which is right at Petra’s ticket office. It’s beautifully Arabic themed, but expect to pay a pretty penny. I do recommend walking in to look around, or to have a drink at the bar. Wadi Musa has a number of hostel options as well. As far as restaurants go, the street leading away from Petra has a number of options, a few of which are quite good. I enjoyed my meal at the Sand Stone Restaurant on the aptly named Tourism Street.

Wadi Rum: Jordan’s Second Big-Ticket Attraction

After a few days of immersing yourself in Petra, it’s time to hop back in the car and head to Wadi Rum, the painted desert made famous by Lawrence of Arabia. The easiest route from Wadi Musa is to continue south along HWY 35, The Kings Highway, until it merges with HWY 15, The Desert Highway (Jordan’s main north-south highway.) You continue south on the Desert Highway for 28 km, and turn left to Wadi Rum Village just past Rashidiyah. Jordanian highways are very well marked, so you’ll have no problem. Follow the signs for Wadi Rum Village, and in another 30 minutes and you’ll arrive at the modern Visitor’s Center. Here, you’ll pay 5 JOD to enter the Wadi Rum Protected Area. 7 km further, and you’re in Wadi Rum Village. The entire drive is roughly 2 hours.

Accommodation in Wadi Rum

Travelers headed to Wadi Rum have the option of staying in Bedouin Camps, Bedouin Camps, or space-pods at the one luxury Bedouin Camp . All camps are out in the middle of the vast, roadless desert, and can only be accessed by 4×4. So, how do you find them? Your best bet is to book a camp before arrival and contact the camp via WhatsApp to arrange a pick-up time. Most pick-ups are at the village rest house, where you’ll park your car unless you’ve rented a 4×4, in which case you can follow your host to the camp.

Once your host has picked you up, it’s a 15-30 minute ride out to your camp. The camps are rustic, with small, raised tents built around a larger communal tent. The surroundings, however, are jaw-dropping, with orange-red sand dunes as far as the eye can see coupled with sheer-faced mountains popping straight out of the endless sand. Cell phones don’t work out here, nor should they. Wadi Rum is a place to return to a by-gone era, not a place to check Twitter. Though the camps are largely the same, I stayed at, and recommend, Arabian Nights Camp. The tents are new, the dinner is tasty and filling, and the gracious hosts speak good English.

Experiencing Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a quintessential desert. It may just be the most beautiful desert on earth. There are many activities for travelers, and your camp will assist you in booking them. Despite my late arrival, Arabian Nights was able to book me a tour for the next morning. There is really no other way to fully see Wadi Rum without booking a tour. There are half-day (50 JOD per 4×4, seats up to six) and full-day tours (80 JOD per 4×4, same.) Lunch is included. I chose the half-day tour on recommendation from other guests at my camp. It was sufficient to get a good overview of the desert scenery. I imagine the full day tour would get tiresome after awhile.

The half-day tour visits Wadi Rum’s top spots, including:

• Al Hasany Dunes: large, climbable sand dune with expansive desert views
• Lawrence of Arabia’s Spring: waterhole named after Wadi Rum’s famous British Soldier
• Lawrence of Arabia’s House: ruins of where Lawrence lived during the Arab Revolt
• Burdha Rock Bridge: the largest rock bridge in Wadi Rum, the moderately difficult (though short) climb is worth the expansive desert views…and the cool pictures of you standing at the top!
• Little Rock Bridge: smaller rock bridge with excellent views over a large, open portion of desert
• Khazali Canyon: canyon with ancient rock carvings inside

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How much time should you allot for Wadi Rum?

It’s totally up to the individual traveler, but one night at a Bedouin Camp is essential. Seeing the Milky Way without light pollution is reason enough, but the camaraderie and conversation around the campfire without the distraction of the internet is lovely.

I suggest arriving at Wadi Rum Village in the early afternoon so you have time to get to your camp, relax, and head out to one of the spectacular sunset vistas. After dinner, just sit outside and look at the stars. I’m guessing you’ll have never seen a comparable night sky outside of rural Mongolia. The next morning, take a half-day or full-day 4×4 tour. This should give you a nice overview of this special desert landscape. If you’re craving more, there are camel treks and horse treks to fully immerse yourself. Enquire about options at the visitor’s center, or at your camp. Finally, if your budget allows, there are hot air balloon tours high above Wadi Rum, if interested, contact the Royal Aero Sports Club of Jordan, but expect to pay $200 US (140 JOD).

A word to the wise: if you’re visiting in winter, it gets seriously COLD at night. Pack a thick jacket and gloves.

Aqaba: Jordan’s coastal playland

After leaving civilization for a few days in Wadi Rum, it’s time to get some fun and sun in the coastal city of Aqaba. Nestled next to the Red Sea, Aqaba boasts a warm climate year-round. Get there by returning to the Desert Highway and heading south until the road ends. The drive takes a little over an hour. Aqaba is a good place to re-charge and freshen up after your desert escapades. There are suitable hotels for all price ranges, though the city seems to cater to the luxury domestic market. For the budget conscious, I recommend the Yafko Hotel, which has basic, clean rooms.

Aqaba’s main draw is its Red Sea coastline. The Red Sea is famous for snorkeling and scuba diving, and Aqaba isn’t lacking for operators. Though I didn’t dive, Aqaba International Diving Center is highly rated. There are also glass bottom boats if you’re feeling less adventurous. And, of course, there are beaches that will satisfy the sun-worshiper, even in mid-winter. Finally, there is a newly opened golf course which is up to international standards, and recently hosted a European Challenge Tour event. I didn’t have a chance when I was there, but if you want to try your luck on the links at Ayla Golf Club, click here!

Aqaba has the full spectrum of dining options, from budget to 5 star. However, the best meal of my entire trip came at Al Mohandes, a buzzing no-frills restaurant with excellent hummus, some English speaking staff, and easy on the wallet (1 to 3 JOD).

Returning to Queen Alia Airport (or on to Amman)

Once you’ve soaked up some rays, gorged at Al Mohandes, and snorkeled around the Red Sea, you can either 1) cross the border into Israel; 2) return to the airport; 3) continue on to Amman. To return to the airport or Amman, just take the Desert Highway north. While the drive will remind you of a Mad Max set, the road is decent and gets you where you’re going in about 4 hours (4 1/2-5 to Amman city.)

What about the capital, Amman?

We all have a timeframe, and Amman just didn’t fit mine. While I wish I’d had the chance to visit and eat more wonderful Jordanian food, I prefer nature over big cities. I’m sure Amman is a great place to imbibe Jordanian culture, but I simply didn’t have the time. That being said, I’d love to return to Amman one day!

Overview

• Fly into Queen Alia International Airport: there are direct flights from New York and Chicago on Royal Jordanian. (RJ is in the OneWorld alliance, and there is great reward availability through American Airlines.)
• Rent a car at the airport through your company of choice. It helps to be able to drive manual, but it’s not essential. Make sure you check before you book.
• After arrival, head to Madaba and its Christian treasures
• Spend a day at the Dead Sea, and make sure to take a swim! (But don’t shave beforehand!)
• Drive to Petra “the back way,” from the Dead Sea, you won’t regret it!
• Forgo staying in Wadi Rum and stay in a Bedouin Camp near Little Petra
• Spend at least two days in Petra
• Continue on to Wadi Rum, and allot at least a day and a half to enjoy the desert landscape
• Finish up with a relaxing night or two in the coastal city of Aqaba, and don’t forget to eat at Al Mohandes

Practicalities

• While Jordan is a poor country, it isn’t on par with Southeast Asia or South America price wise. Expect to spend $50-75 US per day, minimum, if traveling alone. The majority of that is for lodging and attractions. If sharing accommodation, the amount per day will decrease significantly. Breakfast, and occasionally dinner, are included in the price of your room (or tent.) Food is really inexpensive. Alcohol can be found in Aqaba, and in 5 star hotels, but not many other places.
• 95% of Jordanians are Sunni Muslim, though few of them are extreme. Though many women wear a hijab, a full burka is rare.
• Respect Jordan’s Muslim culture by dressing conservatively. For winter, this isn’t a problem (it’s cold!), but for summer, take lightweight pants.
• Visas are available on arrival for residents of the EU, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and most other “developed” nations. However, it’s wise to check ahead as policies change.

Drop me a line if you have any questions!