Many people travel South America every year. They just don’t travel to Paraguay. It’s skipped. That’s a mistake. Here’s one UNESCO blessed reason why you should travel to Paraguay: the most authentic country in South America.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site…all to yourself
UNESCO World Heritage sites are popular for a reason. They’re spectacular. The positives are obvious: the sites have significant cultural value or natural beauty. Unfortunately, the negatives are just as obvious: visiting the sites is usually expensive and the sites are customarily swarming with camera toting tourists…often of the “package” variety. With that in mind, I bring you the Jesuit Ruins in “The Heart of South America”.
What are the Jesuit Ruins?
The Jesuit Ruins or “Jesuit Reductions” are the remnants of an experiment in Spain’s colonization of the New World. In the 17th century, the Spanish Crown sent Jesuit priests to South America to help colonize the native peoples, in this case the Guaraní, who were native to modern day Paraguay, Southern Brazil, and Northern Argentina.
Left: the former entrance of the Trinidad cathedral
From 1609 to 1767, the Jesuits and the Guaraní built missions together. The priests farmed with, educated, and taught Christianity to the indigenous Guaraní. The Guaraní, in turn, educated the Jesuits about Yerba Mate. (Visit Paraguay, Argentina and especially Uruguay and you’ll see what I mean!) The Jesuits helped to preserve the indigenous Guaraní language which is still spoken, along with Spanish, by over 90% of contemporary Paraguayans. Paraguay is a uniquely bilingual nation.
…but wasn’t colonialism bad?
Generally yes, it was horrific for indigenous populations. That’s where the Jesuit Reductions are unique. The Reductions are often considered a form of “benevolent colonialism”…if such a thing exists…or a “socialist utopia.” Plus, the Reductions kept the Guaraní safe from São Paolo slave traders. For an in-depth look at the history of the Jesuit Reductions and their effect on the indigenous population, click here.
Visiting the Paraguayan Reductions
There are ruins in Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. The grandest, best preserved, and most famous Reductions are located in Southeastern Paraguay: La Santisima Trinidad de Paraná (Trinidad) and Jesús de Tavarangue (Tavarangue).
Right: Carvings on the cathedral wall at Trinidad
What’s it Like Visiting the Reductions?
It’s unique and awe inspiring to visit a UNESCO world heritage site void of snap happy tourists taking selfies. When I visited in April 2019, there were only four other tourists at Trinidad, and two other tourists at Taverangue. I spent about an hour at each. You could easily spend more.
Left: Facing the Trinidad Catherdral
How to get to the Jesuit Reductions
Tourism in Paraguay lags far behind “mainstream” South America. As a result, tourism infrastructure is in its infancy. That shouldn’t stop you. Your home base for visiting the Reduction is Encarnación, a pleasant city on the Paraná River.
Getting there from Iguazu Falls
The triple border between Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay is remarkably close to the world famous Iguazu Falls. The Reductions and Encarnacíon are a good two to three day side trip from Foz do Iguaçu and Puerto Iguazú. Routing is simple: take a taxi from Foz to the bus terminal in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay. (NOTE: Ciudad del Este is revolting and NOT worth visiting unless you are buying luxury goods and returning to Brazil. Don’t judge Paraguay on this smuggler’s den.) If you’re American, click here, it’s harder for us.
Once at the bus terminal, buses leave for Encarnación every hour or so. I recommend catching a bus by 9 or 10 am, as it’s a slow, yet pretty, journey of 6+ hours. Ticket Cost: Gr. 70,000 (US $11). Like many South American buses, the bus is a taxi for locals, but it’s safe and gets you to your destination.
Right: Indigenous Guaraní housing, Trinidad
You could stop at the Reductions on your way to Encarnación, but dealing with luggage would be difficult, unpleasant and rushed. Plus, Paraguay is HOT. Going straight to Encarnación and strolling down the Costanera at sunset is recommended. The Reductions are worth a full day.
Getting there from Asunción
Getting to Encarnación from the capital is easy and straight forward. Numerous luxury coaches leave from Asunción’s main bus terminal. Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and Sol del Paraguay are recommended companies. Ticket Cost: Gr. 90,000-120,000 (US $15-20, 5 hrs.) Sol del Paraguay also offers flights from Asunción, though they’re fairly expensive at $115 US+.
*NOTE*: If your budget allows, renting a car is a great option from Asunción. The roads are fine, despite what you may read elsewhere, and there’s almost no traffic outside of Asunción. It also gives you the freedom to discover less accessible natural areas like waterfalls and mountain tops.
Getting there from Posadas, Argentina
If you happen to be in far northern Argentina, getting to Encarnación from Posadas is a breeze. There are frequent international buses that cost roughly Gr. 15,000 (US $2.25)
Getting to the Reductions from Encarnación
Take the bus towards Ciudad del Este that leaves every hour. There will be vendors selling tickets at the Encarnación terminal. The cost is Gr 15,000 (US $2.25), and the journey takes about an hour. Ask the driver (or his assistant) to drop you off at Trinidad, though as a “gringo” they already know where you’re going.
Left: Tavarangue Cathedral from the rear
Once you’re off the bus, take a right and head to Trinidad. The ticket costs Gr 25,000 (US $4.10) and is good for Trinidad, Taverangue, and the remote Reduction of San Cosme y Damian. You can take a taxi from Trinidad to Taverangue. The cost is about Gr. 70,000 (US $11.50), so try to go in a group.
The Jesuit Reductions are a unique opportunity to visit a UNESCO site without the crowds. Do it. You won’t regret it!
