Four Reasons Why Guatemala Should be on Your Travel Radar

From Mountains…to beaches…to temples…to designer coffee, Central America’s largest and most diverse country has it all. Here are four reasons (places) why Guatemala should be at the top of your travel list.

1. Contemporary Culture in Colonial Antigua

Antigua Guatemala (“Old Guatemala”), known simply as Antigua, was Guatemala’s colonial capital. Today, Antigua is undisputedly Guatemala’s capital of contemporary culture. An architectural masterpiece, the city is blessed with scores of historically significant buildings, set beneath a majestic landscape of three volcanos, including the ever-bellicose Fuego. Located at an elevation of 5020 ft (1350 m), Antigua has perennially spring-like climate.

Old Meets New in Guatemala’s Culture Capital

Despite a series of devastating earthquakes over the centuries, Antigua remains a brilliant example of a Spanish colonial architecture, so much so that UNESCO designated it a world heritage site. In recent decades, many of Antigua’s colonial buildings have been exactingly restored. Today, the city’s cobblestoned streets are lined with traditional Spanish villas, crumbling churches, and leafy green spaces, just as they were in colonial times. But don’t be fooled, Antigua is a thriving, modern city.

Walk down any street in central Antigua and you’ll find historic villas housing gourmet coffee shops, french cafes, art galleries, and boutique hotels, all mixed in with traditional Guatemalan eateries and private residences. It’s a wonderful collection of traditional Guatemalan culture coupled with global contemporary culture. You’ll find everyone from artists, to vaqueros (cowboys), to indigenous artisans, to tourists harmoniously strolling the streets. Additionally, Antigua is one of the best places in Latin America to learn Spanish, and there are many high quality schools in the city.

However, Antigua is more than just a cultural hub. The city is surrounded by three powerful volcanoes: Acatenango, Agua, and Fuego. For the adventurous, Acatenango and Agua are ascendable. Further, coffee lovers can explore working coffee plantations and roast their own beans at several locations just outside town.

What to do in Antigua:

Antigua has enough activities for at least 3 days, and that’s if you never leave the colonial center. The city has a wide variety of options to suit everyone from the luxury traveler to the budget backpacker.

Central Antigua

• Learn Spanish: Antigua has some of the highest rated Spanish schools in the Spanish speaking world at a fraction of the cost you’d pay at home. Many schools offer full immersion programs, where you stay with a local family. Recommended schools:
  • Ixchel Spanish School: highly regarded school offering full immersion programs as well as online classes
  • Antigüeña Spanish Academy: one of the more established schools offering a variety of programs for all levels, including immersion homestays
  • Centro Lingüistico Maya: renowned school offering a wide range of classes for all levels, able to set up homestays
• Walk the City: sure, this sounds elementary, but Antigua’s central city is much larger than it initially appears
  • Spend a morning wandering the streets without a plan–you’re bound to find a cool coffee shop, a new restaurant, or a local vendor selling authentic indigenous crafts
  • Visit the central square at night to see the Cathedral brilliantly illuminated
  • Take a guided city tour with Antigua Tours
  • Dine at an open-air cafe and watch the world go by–Antigua’s weather is perfect!
• Visit Antigua’s Churches and Monasteries: Antigua has a wide array of Catholic churches and monasteries, from restored and fully functional to crumbling ruins. Recommended churches:
  • Iglesia de la Merced: dating to 1767, this fully operational Catholic church is Antigua’s finest, with a beautiful yellow facade
  • Iglesia de Santo Domingo: ruins of a large church and convent that are now part of an upscale hotel of the same name
  • Antigua Guatemala Catedral: grand cathedral in Antigua’s central square. The cathedral was ruined in an earthquake and not fully restored. The facade, however, has been restored and is spectacularly lit up at night
• Sample Antigua’s Excellent Cuisine: nowhere in Guatemala (or maybe Central America) are there so many culinary treats in such close proximity Recommended Restaurants:
  • Luna de Miel: fantastic French creperie with a pretty rooftop deck
  • La Casa de las Sopas: authentic Guatemalan restaurant serving fresh, tasty soups, near Iglesia de la Merced
  • Tienda La Canche: I found this hole-in-the-wall through Lonely Planet, and they were right for once! It’s hard to find, near Iglesia de la Merced, and is as authentic as authentic gets. You walk through the store (tienda) to the few tables. I had a soup with what seemed like a whole chicken. Go there!
  • Cafe No Se: the bar in Antigua. This unassuming dive is perfect for anyone looking to have a few cocktails and listen to live music

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Outside Central Antigua

• Cerro de la Cruz: just north of town, this hilltop park offers an idyllic view of central Antigua. Easily walkable, it’s also nice for a jog , and great for pictures!
• Antigua Market: this busy, hectic, and vibrant local market sells everything from cheap t-shirts to authentic handicrafts, if you’ve never been to a local Latin American market, this is a must!
• Volcano Treks: both Acatenango and Agua are ascendable. Acatenango is the preferred climb, as it offers views of Fuego’s constantly fiery cone. Old Town Tours has countless trekking options in Antigua and beyond. Acatenango treks start at $85 US for a day trip and $125 for an overnight trip
• Tour a Coffee Plantation: Filadelfia Resort & Coffee Tours offers comprehensive coffee tours for hotel guests and non-guests. There are several tour options, starting at $10 US (67Q).

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Where to Stay in Antigua?

Antigua has countless options for all budgets, and it’s fruitless to list them all. However, as far as hostels go, El Hostal BnB sets the standard. Set in a pretty courtyard, El Hostal BnB offers a variety of rooms, an excellent breakfast, and a good happy hour…plus, it’s right across the street from Cafe No Se. Definitely book ahead.

Getting In and Out of Antigua

Antigua is roughly an hour from Guatemala City (Guate). Most travelers skip Guate completely and head straight to Antigua, and I can’t really blame them. Central American capitals (other than Panama City) are dingy and dangerous. Pre-book a shuttle to Antigua if you’re arriving at the airport. To pre-book, click here. Though a little more expensive than the bus ($20 US, 160Q), it’s worth the piece of mind after a long flight. If you’re arriving in Guate from El Salvador, which I did via Pullmatur, you will be dropped off in central Guate. The best, and safest way to get to Antigua is via taxi, costing roughly $32 US or 250Q. It is not recommended to take local city buses in Guate.

Leaving Antigua, most onward travelers head to Lake Atitlán. Your lodging can arrange a shuttle ($15 US, 120Q), which takes about 2 1/2 hours to Panajachel, the gateway to Lake Atitlan. Local “chicken buses” also ply the route. They are cheaper and much slower, but you’ve must ride at least one while you’re in Guatemala!

2. Discover Your Spiritual Side: Lake Atitlán

Ringed by volcanoes, Lake Atitlán is unparalleled in its raw natural beauty. Here you’ll find cool, clear blue waters set beneath benign, dormant volcanoes. The lake’s shore is dotted by several towns, each with a wildly different character. Atitlán sits at 5232 ft (1595m), just under a mile high, and offers mild temperatures year round.

Welcome to a place where people plan on staying four days and end up staying 40 years.

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Atitlán’s Towns: Tailor Your Own Experience

• Panajachel: “Pana” is the gateway to Atitlán, and it’s where you’ll get your introduction to the lake. It’s ugly. Don’t fret. I’m not sure why anyone would want to stay here longer than to arrange a boat transfer elsewhere.
• San Pedro La Laguna: beautifully set on the far side of the lake from Pana, San Pedro is backpacker central. It’s by far the largest and most crowded backpacker town on Atitlán. This has its pluses and minuses, however, if you’re looking to party, San Pedro is a clear winner.
• San Marcos La Laguna: the antithesis of San Pedro, San Marcos is a place for spiritual seekers. Holistic medicine, meditation, and yoga retreats draw in an calm, eclectic crowd. It’s not a place for beer guzzling backpackers. As an added bonus, San Marcos is much prettier than other major lake towns.
• Other Options:
  • Jaibalito: a tiny indigenous village with one good hostel (Posada Jaibalito), and one excellent luxury hotel (La Casa del Mundo Hotel & Cafe.) Jaibalito has the best views of any lake town!
  • San Juan La Laguna: a tranquil version of San Pedro, San Juan is a place for those looking to relax, yet still have the option to grab a beer and connect to wifi. It’s a perfect compromise between San Pedro and San Marcos.

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What to do at Lake Atitlán

This will largely depend on what town you choose and what type of experience you’re looking for. Here’s a list of some popular activities:

• Hiking: there are countless hikes on offer around Atitlán. Here are some of the best:
  • Indian Nose: short hike from San Pedro, the top resembles a Mayan god
  • San Pedro Volcano: also accessible from San Pedro, it’s a three hour climb up, can be done with a guide
  • San Marcos to Jaibalito: beautiful lakeside hike connecting the two prettiest lake towns. The hike itself is a challenging 3.75 miles (6km)
• Indigenous Culture in Santiago Atitlán: indigenous culture remains strong around Atitlán despite the large number of foreign tourists. Nowhere is this more evident that Santiago Atitlán, the largest lakeside town. Here you’ll find Mayan women dressed in traditional garb and men building wooden boats. If possible, visit on the main market days, Friday or Sunday
• Lake Activities: there are plenty of water related activities on Atitlán. Here are some of the best:
  • Cerro Tzankujil: this natural reserve near San Marcos has an attractive hiking trail that leads to a diving platform where you can set sail into the lake
  • Scuba Diving: ATi Divers in San Carlos La Laguna offers PADI certification and a range of dive options
  • Kayaking and Paddleboarding: there are various vendors offering kayaks and paddle boards, especially near the main dock in San Pedro. It’s a nice, inexpensive way to see the lake. $3 US (20Q) per hour
• Get in Touch with Your Spiritual Side: options for spiritual wellness are legion in San Marcos. Recommendations below:
  • Las Pirámides Meditation Center: offers daily meditation and yoga classes. For the more committed, there are month long spiritual development courses that start after every full moon
  • San Marcos Holistic Cottage: offers an array of massages as well as courses in massage, reiki and kinesiology
• And my top Personal Recommendation: relax. There aren’t many places in the world more conducive to relaxing than Lake Atitlán. Hop in a hammock with a book, sit on a dock and gaze at the volcano ringed lake, or listen to the rain from your balcony during an afternoon thunderstorm. The options are endless!

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Getting in and out of Atitlán

• Upon arriving in Pana, go to the boat dock (Embarcadero Tzanjuyú) at the end of Calle del Embarcadero. From there, motorboats go around the lake to the different towns. There is a direct motorboat to San Pedro
• To/From Guate: there are numerous buses each day leaving from Pana, starting early in the morning. $6 US (45Q)
• To/From Antigua: I recommend booking a shuttle through your lodging. $15 US (120Q)
• To/From Quetzaltenango (Xela): several buses daily, starting early in the morning, 2 1/2 hours, $12 US (90Q)
• You can also take a chicken bus up the steep mountain road to Los Encuentros and connect to almost any highland destination in Guatemala.

3. Relaxation: The Emerald Pools of Semuc Champey

Remote but accessible, Semuc Champey is a nature-lover’s dream. Set in a lush tropical forest, Semuc Champey is a contrast from the more populated Guatemalan Highlands. Here, you can detach from civilization while floating in clear emerald pools that bask beneath rugged limestone peaks.

The Semuc Champey Experience:

Semuc Champey is a remote tropical paradise buried in north central Guatemala. It’s not close to any major cities, it’s not near a beach, and it’s not particularly easy to get to. You have to earn it. However, once you’ve arrived, you’ll kick yourself for ever having considered NOT coming here.

All visitors arrive in Lanqúin, a charming village about 7 miles (11km) above Semuc Champey. The heart-pumping final descent into Lanqúin, with countless hairpin turns, is not something you’ll soon forget. Most people choose stay in Lanqúin, though there is lodging closer to Semuc Champey. Your hostel (or eco lodge) can book various area tours, including the tour of Semuc Champey. There’s no need to book ahead.

A Day at Semuc Champey

The standard Semuc Champey tour costs $12 US (150Q), including park entrance fee. It starts at 9 am and ends around 4 or 5 pm. However, you must pay extra to enter the Kam’ba Caves (50Q). Some tours provide lunch a box lunch for 25Q. Bring some extra cash if you’d like to buy bottled water or beer.

The tour begins in the back of a pickup truck, as you leave Lanquín and descend the muddy track towards Semuc Champey. The bumpy drive takes a little over half an hour. While each tour is different, my tour started at the Kam’ba Caves.

The caves are not for the faint of heart. They’re certainly not for those with claustrophobia. You begin with a semi-challenging walk through moving water while holding a candle. After you’re a little deeper in the caves, there are a few awkward climbs. Though it’s somewhat physically challenging, the scenery inside the caves is brilliant. While I’m not wild about enclosed spaces, I’m really glad I ponied up and explored the caves. Altogether, you’ll explore the caves for about an hour.

After exiting the caves you have the opportunity to jump off the Rio Cabahan Bridge into the river below. It’s an exhilarating but easy plunge, but best of all it’s a good way to cool off…or show off. Next, lunch is served by your tour, or you can opt to eat from a local vendor cooking food on an open grill. Most tours have a “go-to” vendor. I’d opt for the freshly cooked food–mine was wonderful.

After lunch, you begin your hike up to El Mirador viewpoint, a lookout atop limestone cliffs offering spectacular views of Semuc Champey. The hike is fairly easy, and you stop at various waterfalls and viewpoints along the way. Several of the large waterfalls can be scaled, and you can jump into the pools below.

After about an hour’s hike you reach El Mirador. The view of the emerald pools below is magical. The unique landscape of jungle covered limestone cliffs dropping off into different shaded pools imprints itself in your memory. After taking hundreds of pictures from all different angles, you begin your descent towards the pools.

Twenty minutes later, you arrive at the Semuc Champey pools. The pools themselves are clear, warm, and serenely relaxing. You could lounge around for hours in the dozens of pools, just gazing at the surroundings–and many people do. After an hour or so of swimming and relaxing, you have the choice to stay at the pools or return to the visitors center and catch a truck back to Lanqúin. If you choose to stay at the pools, you can easily catch a truck back to Lanqúin for 20Q.

All in all, it’s a wonderful day. Everything is very relaxed, and you’ll head back to Lanqúin fat and happy with a few hundred new photos.

Lodging in Semuc Champey and Lanqúin

I opted to stay in Lanqúin, which is an actual town. Lanqúin offers a variety of hostels, eco lodges, restaurants, and 24 hour electricity. Staying at Semuc Champey is more rustic and isolated, and you’re confined to your hostel for food. Here are a few of the top places to stay:

• Lanqúin
  • El Retiro Lodge: beautifully located along a riverbank, this expansive hostel lodge has private rooms (starting at $20 US, 155Q ) and dorm beds (starting at $3 US, 23Q ) a pool, and a beach volleyball court. However, the star of the show is the large restaurant bar area that serves good food and cold beer. Prices change seasonally.
  • Zephyr Lodge: located on a hill just outside of central Lanqúin, Zephyr is another good, but more expensive, choice offering private rooms (starting at $44US 345Q) and dorm rooms (starting $14 US, 105Q). The private rooms are considerably better than the dorms.
• Semuc Champey
  • El Portal: the closest backpacker hostel to Semuc Champey, El Portal offers private rooms (starting at $20US, 155Q) and dorm rooms ($6US, 46Q). There is also a restaurant and pool onsite. Electricity is provided by a generator.
  • Utopia Eco Hotel: about a mile and a half from Semuc Champey, Utopia is the most unique option in the area. Utopia does offer dorm beds (starting at $6 US, 45Q), but the real draw is the riverfront cabins ($40 US, 310Q). There is an onsite vegetarian restaurant, bar, and pool.

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Getting to and from Semuc Champey:

Though Semuc Champey is not the easiest destinationto get to, the journey shouldn’t discourage you. The roads are decent all the way to Coban, the nearest city. As mentioned above, the final descent to Lanqúin is typical mountain road in the developing world…which means it lacks pavement and guardrails. Embrace it! Below are the most common routes to and from Semuc Champey/Lanqúin:

• From Guate:
  • There are shuttles ($30US) offered from Guate to Lanqúin. Atitlan Tours has a good website showing numerous shuttle destinations in Guatemala.
  • Via regular bus: from Guate’s CentraNorte terminal, take an early morning bus to Coban (50Q, hourly from 5 am, 4 1/2 hours). If you don’t leave early, you’ll get stuck in Coban for the night. The Guate-Coban bus will drop you off at Coban’s Campo Dos terminal. From Campo Dos, walk to mercado la terminal, on Calle 3 between 1st and 2nd Agendas. You’ll find buses there to Lanquín for 25Q, 2 1/2 hours. (Make sure you have the maps.me offline map app!)
• From Antigua: shuttles run to Lanqúin every morning at 8 am and cost 150Q. The journey takes anywhere from 8 to 11 hours. If you prefer to take a bus, you must return to Guate and then repeat the steps listed above.
• From Atitlán: this is not realistic in one day, however, you could theoretically take a 5 am shuttle from Pana to Antigua and then hop on the 8 am shuttle from Antigua to Lanqúin. This would make for a miserable day 15-18 hour travel day and is not recommended.
  • If you want to travel like a true Guatemalan, take a few days and go by chicken bus (a brightly painted old American schoolbus.) The chicken bus route heads north via Chichicastenango. It’s an amazing cultural experience, which I’ve done via the uniquely Mayan city of Nebaj. If interested, please contact me.
• From Flores (Tikal): there are daily shuttles heading to and from Flores. Book at your hostel. The hot, rough-and-tumble journey takes about 9 hours and costs $25US (200Q).

4. Take in Mayan History at Tikal

A crown jewel of ancient Mayan civilization, Tikal lies deep in the jungle of Guatemala’s far northern region of El Petén. Along with Mexico’s Teotihuacan, Tikal was one of the great pre-Columbian cities in North America. Tikal’s vast array of large temples set the backdrop for an ancient city of over 100,000 people. Today, you can stroll the grounds and drink in the archaeological and architectural treasures of this once great city.

Visiting Tikal

Tikal visitors arrive via Flores, an island city surrounded by Lake Petén Itzá. Flores is a fish out of water: it’s a pretty colonial town dropped on a jungle island in the middle of a lake. The hilly, narrow city streets are lined with colorful homes, restaurants, shops, and hotels. The views of the lake from the center of town are worth the walk despite the relentless jungle heat. Flores is an ideal spot to relax and save up energy before visiting Tikal.

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Tikal itself is located 40 miles (65km) northeast of Flores. The overwhelming majority of visitors take a tour from Flores. Tours are offered throughout the day, including the popular sunrise and sunset tours. There are lodging options at Tikal for those interested in a multi-day visit. However, for most tourists, a one day tour is sufficient to take in the majesty of the site. Archaeological buffs may wish to spend more time combing the massive area, as much of the ancient city is still covered by dense jungle.

Los Amigos Hostel, which I recommend, offers tours at 3:00 am, 4:30 am, 8:00 am, and 12:30 pm. Costs are 80Q plus the park entrance fee of 150Q. The drive to Tikal takes an hour and a half, and the tour lasts approximately five hours. If so inclined, you can extend your tour and take a later bus back to Flores. The tours are led by knowledgable English speaking guides and cover the main points of interest.

Here’s a glimpse of what you’ll see at Tikal:

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Where to Stay when Visiting Tikal

I recommend staying in Flores when visiting Tikal. Flores is a relaxing town with lakeside activities, good restaurants, and plenty of lodging options. As noted above, Los Amigos Hostel is fantastic. Los Amigos offers dorm rooms starting at 80Q w/o AC or 110Q w/ AC, and private rooms from 200Q w/o AC or 320Q w/ AC. It’s hot, so spring for the rooms with AC. There’s a good on-site restaurant and bar set in a leafy green common area complete with hammocks. An on-site tour agency can book tours around the area, including lake tours and tours to further afield Mayan sites such as Mirador.

If you choose to stay at Tikal, the Tikal Inn ($55 US, 425Q), Jungle Lodge ($125 US, 965Q), and Jaguar Inn ($50 US, 385Q) have upscale rooms and provide tours.

Getting in and out of Flores (Tikal)

• To/From Guate:
  • Flight: by far the quickest and most expensive option if to fly. Flights start at $115 US. Book through Avianca or TAG.
  • Bus: numerous buses head to Guate everyday from the terminal in Santa Elena. Prices start at $20 US, 150Q, the trip takes 8-10 hrs.
• To/From Semuc Champey:
  • Shuttle: numerous shuttles head to an from Lanquín everyday. ($25 US, 200Q, 9 hrs.) Book through your hostel.
• From Lake Atitlán or Antigua: you will almost certainly go through Guatemala city, see above.
• To/From Belize City: regular buses head to Belize’s capital daily. ($22, 160Q, 4-5 hrs.) Tickets can be booked through your hostel.

…and that’s just the beginning!

These four destinations only scratch Guatemala’s surface. There are countless other reasons to visit the country, including remote Pacific beaches, unique Garifuna culture on the Caribbean coast, the high altitude cities of Quetzaltenango (Xela) and Chichicastenango, and the unique indigenous Mayan culture in cities such as Nebaj . Drop me a line if you have any questions!